Doggles

If you really want your gift to be a hit with admirers, accessorize. Try a designer dog collar and maybe a cool pair of sunglasses–they make them just for dogs. In fact, “doggles” are more than just an accessory. They protect your dogs eyes from UV rays and wind-born particles. Oh, and I recently heard that leg warmers are making a come back.

Got a mischievous sense of humor? Silly-looking outfits are good clean fun when it comes to dressing up a dog. There are some really creative doggie costume out there that are good for a chuckle or two.

There’s really only a couple of rules you’ll need to keep in mind when shopping for dog clothes:
One is that if the dog in question is an avid chewer, you should avoid buying him anything tempting. Shiny buttons, fringe, and feathers are examples that come to mind. An object that can easily be chewed off and swallowed is a choking hazard and can get stuck in the dog’s digestive tract.

The other rule is that any dog, no matter how tolerant, will be more comfortable wearing clothes that fit. Proper fit typically requires measuring from the dog’s collar to the base of her tail for length. Most garment’s girth can be adjusted with velcro tabs, but could still be an issue with a barrel-chested breed such as a bulldog. Measurements are typically in inches.

Remember that a dog will never “diet down” into an outfit that’s too small , or — unless you’re shopping for a puppy or a pregnant female — “grow into” an item that’s too big.

Oh, and one more thing–if you’re handy with a sewing machine, you can make your own dog clothes creations. Just don’t forget to include an opening for the dog to relieve himself. Don’t laugh, it happens a lot!

Now, if you’re shopping for your own dog, you’re all set. But if you’re buying clothes for someone else’s dog, I’ve got a few more tips for you.

Surveys conducted on the subject of gift preferences of men and women have shown that men prefer gifts that are more playful or practical. So, if the dog’s owner is male this might translate into a doggie Harley jacket, a funny costume, or a reflective hunting vest (or a pair of doggles).

Women, on the other hand, like gifts that are beautiful, memorable, and personal. It shouldn’t be hard to find an item of clothing for a woman’s dog that’s either beautiful or memorable or both, and it will of course be personal!

I hope you’ll have fun picking out something nice for the canine on your shopping list. If you get a chance, send me a photo!

If after a few months of trying, if you still have puppy potty training problems, a veterinarian should be consulted to check for health problems.

Though it’s certain that dogs and chocolate don’t mix, different dogs react differently to the methylxanthines. And reactions can vary according to the age, size and overall health of the dog. The smaller the dog the smaller the dose needed to produce an effect. And of course, if your dog’s health is already weakened by other medical conditions, he’s more susceptible. The same holds for older dogs
Theobromine is present in differing amounts in different kinds of chocolate:

White chocolate 1mg/oz

Hot chocolate 12 mg /oz

Milk chocolate 44-66 mg/oz

Semi-sweet chocolate 260 mg/oz

Dark chocolate 450 mg/oz (wow!)

Baking/bitter chocolate or cocoa powder varies as much as 150-600 mg/oz.

How much chocolate can a dog eat and survive?

That depends in part on her weight.

Under 200 mg theobromine per kg body weight (91mg per lb) has not been observed to be fatal. A potentially lethal dose in a 16 pound. dog is only one pound of milk chocolate. Only two ounces of baking chocolate can cause serious problems in a 10-pound dog. People stop eating chocolate before getting to toxic levels, but dogs don’t!


What are the warning signs of a problem?

Any dog who’s eaten chocolate should be watched closely for symptoms, particularly smaller dogs, “seniors”, and dogs with health problems. Symptoms may range from from vomiting and diarrhea to panting, excessive thirst and urination, hyperactivity, abnormal heart rhythm, tremors, seizures and even death in severe cases.

While white chocolate may not be as likely to cause a methylxanthine poisoning, the high fat content of lighter chocolates could still lead to vomiting and diarrhea, and possibly the development of life-threatening pancreatitis. Too much fatty food will also affect a dogs health in the same way it does ours, by packing on the pounds!


What can be done once chocolate is ingested?

Make note of the type of chocolate ingested and how much was eaten, if possible.

Theobromine will stay in the bloodstream between 14 and 20 hours. Within two hours of ingestion, try inducing vomiting unless your dog is over stimulated, comatose, or has lost the gag reflex.

If your dog has eaten a considerable amount of chocolate, or displays any of the above symptoms, take her to the vet right away. If her symptoms are minor, make her eat activated charcoal. The unabsorbed theobromine binds to it and be passed out of the system. (In a pinch, burnt – as in thoroughly blackened – toast will do.)


Are there any other products I should worry about?

Yes — Cocoa Mulch!!

No, it’s not chocolate, but the two products have something in common. They’re both derived from the cocoa bean, and they’re both hazardous to your dogs health.

Cocoa Mulch

Cocoa bean shells are a by-product of chocolate production and are popular as mulch for landscaping. Homeowners like the attractive color and scent, and the fact that the mulch breaks down into an organic fertilizer.

Some dogs are attracted to cocoa mulch, and will eat it in varying quantities. The coca bean shells can contain from 0.2% to 3% theobromine (the toxin ) as compaired to 1-4% in unprocessed beans.

Eating cocoa mulch has four possible outcomes. The most common is vomiting, in 50% of cases. Next most common, in 33% of cases, is tremors (shaking). And 17% end up with tachycardia (rapid heart rate), hyperactivity or diarrhea. The fourth outcome is no effect on the dogs health at all, and this is the result in 33% of cases.

Although only 16 cases were reported in approximately one year (the duration of the study), reports are on the increase. California accounts for about 2/3 of cases reported so far. Fortunately, there have been no reported fatalities, and getting your friend to the vet promptly will assure a happy outcome.


What’s the Bottom Line?

Thanks to a more educated public, fewer fatalities from foods like chocolate are being reported these days.

Still, it pays to keep up with what’s currently known about various foods and their effects on a dogs health and well being. Grapes and cocoa mulch, for example, were discovered only recently to have harmful effects.

If your dogs health is important to you (and I’m betting it is!), then keep him away from the chocolates on Valentine’s Day and other holidays as well. And watch out year round for products made from the cocoa bean.

In an emergency, call your vet or the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center at 888-426-4435.

When it comes to ticks I can’t think of a single redeeming quality.

While you may see the occasional ant farm or flea circus, the tick competes with the cockroach on the “likeability” scale!

Here’s what you need to know to defeat them and prevent them from spoiling you and your dog’s Summer fun…

What Makes a Tick “Tic”?

Did you know that ticks aren’t insects? They belong to the same family as spiders (arachnids). That may explain why we humans find them especially unappealing!

The fact that it behaves like a tiny vampire makes the tick even more detestable. Technically, a tick is a blood sucking mite that can expand 20 to 100 times it’s size as it feeds. (Gross). And ticks can spread Lyme disease and Rocky Mountain Spotted fever, making them potentially lethal.

Ticks use their sharp mouth pieces to attach themselves to your dog’s skin. Their favorite spots are the head, neck, ears, or feet. The scariest thing about them is the fact that ticks can go unnoticed.

Tiny as they are, they can attach themselves to you or your dog without being seen or felt. And especially if your dog has a dark coat, ticks will often continue to go unnoticed until they’re well engorged with blood.

At that point, you still may not see them, but you’ll certainly feel them by running your fingers or a fine toothed comb through your dog’s coat. (I still remember finding one on our black poodle when I was a child. It looked like a small school bus, so I can only imagine how long it had been there! )

The Spring and Summer months are when ticks are most prevalent, but any time your dog has been in a heavily wooded area, she should be checked. Ticks like wooded, grassy, and damp areas best.

Two types of ticks are most commonly found on dogs–the brown dog tick and the American dog tick. But deer ticks and western black-legged ticks will feed on dogs too. Of course, the tick was captured before having a chance to feed. The average tick begins it’s adventures approximately the size of a sesame seed. After making a meal of your dog’s (or your) blood, it may reach the size of a small grape! ( I swear, the one I saw looked like a school bus…)

Aside from the risk of contracting Lyme disease or spotted fever from ticks, there’s another concern: Too many ticks feeding on a single dog can cause severe anemia or a condition called tick paralysis.

Does and Don’ts of Tick Removal

A tick can be spotted fairly easily against a background of pink skin or a light colored coat. Check your dog all over, but especially around the head and neck, ears and paws. Against dark skin and coats, ticks virtually disappear, so you’ll have to feel for them. Another option is to run a fine-toothed comb or flea comb through your dog’s coat to loosen ticks that haven’t “latched on” yet.

Please pay special attention to the following:

• Don’t use your bare hands. Latex gloves will protect you from from the tiny organisms that live on ticks and spread disease.
• Do grasp the tick with a tweezers or forceps by the head and pull slowly but firmly, taking care not to leave any of it in the skin.
• Do clean the bite site with rubbing alcohol and apply antibiotic ointment.
• Don’t hold a lit match to the tick or try to smother it with chemicals like kerosene or petroleum jelly. At best, you’ll irritate your dog’s skin and at worst burn it. The tick won’t bat an eye.
• Do drop ticks into rubbing alcohol to kill them
  Don’t attempt to flush a live tick down the toilet or drain, or throw it in the waste basket. It may crawl back out. (The thought of that gives me the willies!!)

How to Avoid and Prevent ticks

Control and prevention of ticks is especially important in avoiding diseases associated with them.

What areas should you avoid? Wooded areas, tall grass, low brush, and damp areas are all attractive to ticks. They also are found in greater numbers in areas such as the Northeastern United States. No place is completely safe, though, since a person or animal can “give ticks a ride” from one place to another by carrying them on their skin, clothing or coats.

In parts of the country where the tick population is especially heavy and the risk of Lyme disease or Rocky Mountain spotted fever especially great, your vet may suggest your dog be vaccinated against ticks. Weigh the pros and cons with your vet if that’s what he or she recommends.

There are plenty of products on the market designed to repel and/or kill ticks. (Never use tick products designed for dogs on a cat — it could kill her). Personally, I like all natural products for controlling fleas and ticks. All conventional products designed to kill/repel fleas and ticks are poisons of one kind or another, and can pose some risk to your pet. Garlic tablets, herbal shampoos, and botanical oils are among your choices. There’s also a spray to relieve hot spots and irritated skin.

No more ticks!

At last, you and your pet can stay healthy and tick-free.Your dog will sure be glad you took the time to read up on ticks!
Remember, natural products help your pets fight parasites better by keeping them strong, healthy, and toxin-free!

So you just brought home an adorable, playful, mischievious puppy! He’s so sweet and cute and he’s already made friends with everyone in the family.
You’re so excited right now that puppy potty training is probably the last thing on your mind.

That is, until you wake up the next morning and find a little “accident” on your favorite rug.


Puppies Need Consistency

One of the biggest challenges of raising a dog is puppy potty training.

Potty training a puppy is something that should begin from the moment you bring your new dog home. The sooner you get your puppy on a schedule and an
established routine, the faster and easier the training process will go.

Persistence and patience on the part of the owner are the biggest keys to success. If you’re not consistent in your training you will only confuse your puppy. Enlist family members to help so that everyone will be on board and you will all teach your puppy in the same manner. Otherwise, he’ll never know what to expect. In fact, learning a simple potty training system together, one that’s easy to implement, will get you and your family up to speed and on your way to having a perfectly trained pup in no time.


Kindness Goes A Long Way

Most important, no one should be yelling at the puppy or punishing him or her for mistakes. Puppy training that’s patient and kind helps teach your puppy to that he’s in a safe and loving environment and builds trust and a strong bond between owner and pet. Your dog wants to please you!

So, contrary to some popular methods of training, puppy potty training should never include any loudly yelling or hitting. Don’t rub your dog’s nose in his mistake. He already knows he’s messed up! Instead, you must learn to watch your dog constantly in the beginning, and as soon as he goes potty indoors, take him outside immmediately. (Watching him closely will also help you understand the warning signs that he’s about to go in the house!) Every time your puppy does his business outside, make a big fuss over him and give him a reward.


Get Him On A Routine

Establish routines early on. Get your puppy to go to bed and wake at the same time each day. Take her outside right after eating, playing, and before bed. Ideally, a brand new puppy should be taken outside every 15 minutes to avoid him peeing or pooping indoors. And if there’s a particular place you want him to do his business, then always take him to the designated area and wait until he goes, then reward him with enthusiasm and a treat. If this sounds like too much work, here’s a way you can fast track your puppy potty training by teaching her in short one-minute sessions!


The Advantages of Crate Training

Finally, if you don’t crate train your puppy, then puppy potty training will be much harder. A puppy will quickly learn that her crate is just like her “den”. A nice, cozy place she can call her own. Once trained, she will be happy to spend time there and it can serve as a place to sleep at night instead of on your bed.

This has many advantages. Not the least of which is that dogs don’t like to soil the place they sleep in. So rather than go potty in his crate, your dog will more likely let you know that it’s time to “go”. Plus, he won’t have the run of the house while at night. Need I tell you what kind of mishief he can get into while you’re sleeping?


Respect His Attention Span

Finally, don’t engage your puppy in any long training sessions. Puppies don’t have the attention span for more than 15 minutes of training at a time. And even that much can be overwhelming for some dogs.

In fact, puppy potty training works better if you do it in very short sessions. You can potty train your puppy quickly using simple, one minute training sessions. And this method works great not only for puppy potty training but to break or prevent all kinds of annoying puppy habits.

 
 
“Bad” is a human concept, according to dog behaviorists. Dogs aren’t being bad, they’re just being dogs. “Why then,” asked a writer for the Seattle Times, “did my terrier  (Kiley) just flee down an embankment carrying a rock the size of a canned ham?”

The reason, she concludes, is that he knew she couldn’t catch him. He’d done the math.

Kiley’s typical day reads like a laundry list of antisocial behavior. Stealing food off a small child’s plate, peeing on dinner guests, grabbing other peoples frisbees in mid air and trashing them — all are fair game for the out-of-control canine.

I had my own “Kiley” when I was a kid. Our Standard Poodle’s favorite trick was to bolt out the back door on a school morning, then prance around while we tried to lure her back inside with tasty bits of cheese (her favorite snack).

Then Susie would run up, snatch a piece of cheese, and dash off before we could grab her. She’d always flash a big canine grin and wiggle her rump in the air once she was well out of reach. This went on until our dog was certain we’d missed our school bus.

We all know dogs who behave this way at times. They bury toys in the yard, then dig them up and bring them indoors when they’re “ripe”. They leap onto counters to steal foods not intended for canine consumption, and then eliminate them all over the living room carpet. They bark incessantly, chew on furniture, refuse to come when you call them, and greet guests by “nosing” them in private places.

They laugh at whatever discipline you try to instill in them.

And their personalities can be less than endearing…

Our poodle flunked out of obedience classes repeatedly, until we finally gave up. But Kiley’s owner was more persistent. She sought advice from dog books, breeders, obedience trainers, behaviorists, a bad-dog support group and even a pet psychic.

All in vane. Kiley reportedly defied every type of training his owner tried.

Ms. Holt (Kiley’s owner) finally turned to trainer Mathilde DeCagney, owner of “Moose”, the famous Jack Russel from the hit show Frasier. By all accounts, before making it big in television, Moose’s behavior was a lot like Kiley’s. After asking some probing questions, Ms. DeCagney came to the following conclusion:

The fault is entirely with the owner.

She described Kiley’s problem as follows:

• he’s a working dog without a job;
• a social dog without enough companionship;
• a smart dog without enough mental stimulation;
• a hyper dog without enough exercise.

Kiley was frustrated!!! (In retrospect, Susie was too.)

I’ve heard it said that it’s often the owner who needs to be trained more than the pet. Many of us design a life around an average dog,one who’s content to sleep while we’re at work, and happy with a daily walk and weekend trips to the dog park.

But it’s often the case that the pet we choose is not, and never will be that dog. Our dogs don’t tell us when they’re frustrated; they show us!

Shortly after reading about Kiley, I wrote to Ms. Holt to let her know how much I admired her “hanging in there”. Her reply? “In truth, we’re going through another round of training … for me, not him. ”

If you thought dog noses were just a source of smeary prints on your windows, think again!

Why Dogs Noses are Wet

Why are dog noses wet? Fluid from the lateral glands in a dog’s nose lubricates the outsides of his nostrils and makes them moist and shiny. But mostly, the nose stays wet because your dog is always licking it (along with other parts). So, a moist nose has generally been considered as a healthy nose, but this isn’t always true. For example, if a dog falls asleep in a hot place, his nose may be dry when he first wakes up. Once he cools down and has a little Gatorade (kidding!) — I mean, gets rehydrated, his nose will soon look wet again.

Distemper can permanently alter the nasal glands. So, a dog who suffers from distemper early in life may have a perpetually dry nose.

Why Dogs Noses are Cold

Cold normally goes along with wet, which I heard has something to do with convection cooling, or some such law of physics, which I’ve long forgotten. So, if a dog’s nose dries out (see above), it will feel warm to the touch. This is OK, as long as the nose gets wet again. However, a chronically dry nose could be sign of illness and should be seen by a vet.

Note: if you have concerns about your dog’s nose and health, be sure to check with your vet!

Why Dog Noses Are Hard To Fool

We know that dogs have traditionally been used for tracking, search and rescue due to their keen sense of smell.

A dog’s sense of smell is about 40,000 times better than ours, and that’s not all. You can’t throw a dog off by “covering up” one smell with another. A study was done in which a number of different objects were sprayed with skunk odor, and trained tracking dogs were still able to distinguish the objects from each other! So forget about trying to fool Fido!

Here’s another intriguing story about the dog’s famous sense of smell: A yellow lab named Parker wasn’t a trained “nose dog”, but liked to sniff everything, all the time. Then he began to constantly sniff a blemish on his owner’s leg, which had been there for a number of years. The dog was pushing his nose hard into the area, and really concentrating. So, the owner decided to have it looked at. The skin specialist immediately detected the early signs of skin cancer, and ordered the blemish removed immediately. Once the lesion was gone, Parker lost interest in the leg! Similar stories have reportedly led doctors in the US to train dogs to “sniff out” skin cancer. Apparently, dogs can detect skin cancer long before any conventional methods can!! More recently, dogs have been given urine samples from cancer victims to see if they can also smell bladder and prostate cancer. The results have been promising.

How Nose Prints Save Dog’s Lives

Nose prints are used to identify dogs in the same way finger prints are used to identify human beings. Breeders and trainers keep a dog’s nose prints on file as part of its permanent record and insurance companies now require them whenever a dog is to be bonded. At one time paw prints were used as a means of canine identification, but these proved less accurate than noses. And while some owners have had microchips “installed” in their pets, these are more invasive and can be detected and removed. If you dog is ever lost or stolen, having his nose print on record could save his life!

Fun With Dog Noses

My favorite sort of fun with dog noses is the many ways they can be used to create art. Any Mom can have a pendant made using a child’s fingerprint, but did you know she can also wear her fur baby’s nose print as a keepsake? Of course, to do this you will need to make an impression (or “mold”) of your dog’s nose. Try asking your dentist for a little alginate impression material or some impression putty. Or find a jeweler online who specializes in dog jewelry and they may be able to send you a kit to make the impression they will use for your keepsake.

For something simpler, you can also wear a dog nose in the form of a mask. Try searching for “dog noses” on eBay. I did, and found a cute rubber dog nose mask complete with whiskers for a couple of bucks!

Characteristics of Schutzhund Dogs

Schutzhund (German for “protection dog”) tests dogs of all breeds for characteristics that are necessary for Police work,  guard dogs, tracking, protection and many others. The purpose of Schutzhund is to identify dogs that are likely to have or not have the exact characteristics required for these demanding jobs.Some of those features are:

• Strong desire to work
• Courage
• Intelligence
• Trainability
• Strong commitment to helping
• Endurance
• Protective instinct

Schutzhund training tests these traits. It also examines physical characteristics such as strength, endurance, flexibility, and smell capability. The goal of Schutzhund is to illuminate the character of a dog through training.Breeders can use this insight to determine how and whether the dog used if they produce the next generation of working dogs.

The Basics of Schutzhund Dog Training

Schutzhund training is a very highly structured process. The Schutzhund test has changed over the last 100 years, becoming a lot less abusive than when it began. Modern Schutzhund consists of three phases: tracking, obedience and  protection. A dog must be awarded all three phases. Each phase is judged on a point scale of 100, where the dog must exceed the minimum score of 70. At any time the judge can dismiss a dog for the showing of bad temperament, including fear or aggression.

Schutzhund dog training starts when a dog is very young, no more than a few weeks old. It can last anywhere from weeks to months to be sure the dog is suited to the job.

Phases of Training

The essence of Schutzhund training is the same everywhere although the exact specifics will depend on what course you enroll in. In addition to the three phases — Obedience, Tracking and Protection, modern Schutzhun also includes clicker training in many cases. Clicker training should start early, by around 10 weeks.

Obedience training is the foundation on which Schurzhund dog training is built. Dogs must learn 11 basic commands including such things as retrieving, targeting, heeling, heel position, and “focus and attention”.

In the tracking phase, dogs must learn to track different objects such as drugs, bombs, and cadavers. Here is where they make use of their “targeting” and “pointing out of an object” obedience cues.

The protection phase of Schutzhund training is critical for police dogs, guard and attack dogs.

The best source of training information is a good Schutzhund club. The overwhelming majority of Schutzhund training is done by the owner with the assistance of the local clubs. There are very few clubs in the U.S., making books and videos a vital source of information. Most Schutzhund clubs tend to small to be 20 or fewer members, because there is a limit to the number of dogs that can be trained in one session.

How To Stop Your Puppy From Biting

One of the most common mistakes pet owners make is to assume that biting in a puppy is just a normal part of play. The dog is teething, so you figure it’s just a stage that he’ll outgrow. Not so! What your pup is actually doing is learning how to establish his place
in the pack. His teeth are his tool for establishing dominance.

It’s best if you can nip this behavior (pun intended!) in the bud while your dog
is still a puppy. Under age six months, it’s very easy to retrain most dogs, as
this is when they are forming lifelong habits and it is when they learn how to
bite in the wild.

There are many ways to do this.

Do not hit, do not scold … “Silence is golden”. Ignore her when she bites you,
remove your hands and leave. She will understand that this behavior does not
please you and results in your departure. Or, divert her attention with
replacement therapy; offer your dog a toy to nip instead of your hand.

Another thing: when you play with your dog you do get him too excitemed? When
you throw a ball to him, play tug of war, et cetera, these games are involving
your hands. So when your puppy gets excited he takes on your hands in his mouth
because he’s excited and he’s establishing dominance. Don’t offer him this
satisfaction, simply stop all its games where your dog gets excited.

If you can’t get your puppy to stop then you can take things a step further by
hiring a trainer to teach him to stop biting or enrolling him in obedience
class.

How To Stop Adult Dogs From Biting

A dog that has been allowed the run of the house and allowed to nip and bite to
show who’s in charge will start to move on to more aggressive biting habits at
about one year of age. This is when play biting usually becomes a serious habit.
So if you haven’t already, take the advice above and stop all wrestling, tug of
war or other dominance related games.

You’re also going to have to reign your dog in around the house. Establish clear
boundaries and cut down their territory. You may even have to resort to crate
training or obedience training.

As Your Dog Ages

If you let your dogs biting problem go on for too long into adulthood it can
become very dangerous. Past 12 months, if he is still nipping, he has firmly
established himself as the leader of the pack. This means he can even turn on
his owner and assert his dominance with an attack.

Professional help is your best bet for older dogs. Unless your dog is sick or
has a mental disorder, he can be retrained. But really, it’s best to get this
bad behavior under control in puppyhood. Adult dogs who bite are dogs whose
issues could have been resolved much more easily as puppies.

Let me explain….

Evolution has given fleas quite a few advantages

This is what makes them so tough to get rid of. You see, the flea is a very adaptable and resilient little pests (not unlike the cockroach–ugh).

What advantages do fleas have? There are three major ones:

• First of all, small as they may be, fleas have an immune system. And they will develop immunity to any kind of pesticide you use on them. It may take a few generations before this happens, but it doesn’t take all that long for fleas to reproduce, so a few generations is nothing in “flea time”.
• Second, fleas go through several stages of development, referred to as a “life cycle”. During the fleas life cycle, it progresses from egg to larva to pupa, to adult flea. Trouble is, only the adult and larval fleas are susceptible to attack. Flea eggs and cocoons can live quite comfortably through a “bug bomb”, or in the presence of flea collars and powders.

• Third, fleas don’t live just on your dog. It would be great if they did, because we’d only have to deal with our pet and we’d be done. We all understand that dogs pick up fleas outdoors, and that every time they step outside, dogs are tasty targets for fleas inhabiting the yard, woods, etc. So, we know there’s danger lurking outside. But you might figure that once a flea hops on board, it’ll live out its life cycle on your pet. To some extent, that’s true. Initially, fleas lay their eggs on their host. But, most of the eggs don’t stay there. They fall off, landing on the floor, in the carpet, and back in the yard! And we’re not talking about just a few eggs. A single flea can lay 10 to 50 eggs a day, and can live as long as 100 days. That’s as many as 2000 eggs in the lifetime of a single flea. Imagine the possibilities…

Here’s another disturbing (and pretty disgusting) fact about fleas: when they bite, they inject a tiny amount of saliva into your dog. It acts as a blood thinner, making the blood easier to extract, but this also can be a means of spreading diseases and tapeworms. And it certainly isn’t good for allergy-prone dogs, who can develop rashes and hot spots.

The Trouble with Traditional Methods

Convention has it that dogs should wear flea collars. If that doesn’t work, sprinkle her with flea powder. And, of course, fumigate the house and yard. We’ve already discussed one problem with that approach, which is that fleas become immune to all pesticides sooner or later, so you must continually change products. But the other problem is more serious. It’s the fact that all pesticides are poisons. They weaken your dog’s immune system, making him an even tastier target for fleas. And they can make him sick in other ways too.

Poison is poison, no matter how you package it. (Yes the “spot-on” products are full of toxins too) And in your fight to eradicate fleas, you’ll end up spreading poisons all over your yard, around your home, and –through his skin–into your dog’s vital organs. Sure, no more fleas, but at what cost to everyone’s health?

So, what’s a dog lover to do?

Fortunately, there’s an answer. What most of us aren’t told is that there are natural substances that fleas can’t tolerate, and that are actually lethal to fleas. One of these is call “diatomaceous earth”, or “DE”. DE is composed of finely milled fossilized shells of minuscule organisms called diatoms. The microscopically fine, sharp edges dry out the insects’ outer shell on contact and fleas will dehydrate and die within hours.

The insects also die when they eat the dust. And it works on lots of other pests besides fleas! What’s great about DE is that your dog (or cat) can eat it and it won’t hurt her at all. And since it works by dehydration, fleas can’t become immune to it.

DE can be purchased as a powder,  and sprinkled on your pet and around your home. Don’t leave out that most important step! Sprinkle the floors, furniture and carpeting. Sprinkle your dog’s bedding and any place he likes to “hang out”, since that’s where the most fleas will accumulate. Be sure to get underneath the furniture, because fleas like to hide out in dark places.

While vacuuming and washing the floors often is helpful, unless you can do it daily, it won’t be enough. You should also know that fleas that get sucked into the vacuum bag can live and reproduce there, so be sure to vacuum up some DE powder too, to kill off fleas in the bag.

What about your dog’s irritated skin?

All that scratching and those powders can leave a dog’s skin pretty irritated. Well, Mother Nature has something for that too…

Neem seed oil is a very bitter oil with a garlic/sulfur smell and contains vitamin E and other essential amino acids. It’s completely natural, and has been used as a botanical pesticide for years. When used on fleas and other pests, it impairs their development.  Added bonuses are an antibacterial property, and a soothing effect on the skin.( Humans have been know to use Neem oil as an anti-arthritis and anti-wrinkle formula!) Comb the oil through your dog’s coat with a flea comb to help distribute it to both coat and skin. Now, your dog is not only free of fleas, but her skin feels better too.

Essential oils are another natural and effective way of repelling fleas. Cedar, tea tree, citronella, eucalyptus and pennyroyal, (the last two are toxic to cats) are all repulsive to fleas and can be obtained at most stores that sell herbal remedies. There are also essential oil blends containing Neem oil. Just dab a drop of the essential oil on your dog’s collar, and mist it — diluted with water– onto her coat. Or, buy a pre-formulated spray and mist her to drive fleas away.If your pet is already suffering from flea bites and itchy skin, herbal sprays will help soothe irritated skin. They contain aloe, which we all know is great for burns and hot spots!

Bathing your dog is also an effective, safe and natural way to get rid of fleas, using a neem or oatmeal based shampoo if her skin is irritated. “Bathe” her bedding too, by washing it weekly in hot soapy water. A flea comb will help you find their hiding spots.

What about the yard?

You can sprinkle DE powder here too, or apply it with a sprayer. Another option is to use “beneficial nematodes”. Nematodes are microscopic soil worms that attack white grubs, fleas and crickets. They can be purchased from nurseries and similar outlets, mixed with water and sprayed on the breeding areas. In order for the nematodes to survive, the soil must remain relatively moist and watered at least twice weekly. Beneficial nematodes do not harm plants, animals, humans or birds. Concentrate your spraying within 50 feet of where your dog “hangs out”, since that’s where the most fleas are found.

Ready to go high tech?

So far we’ve been taking the all-natural approach. But these days, there’s a gadget for everything, and killing fleas is no exception. The people at Sharper Image have come up with an electronic “Flea Zapper” comb, which relies on a safe, low electric charge that is harmless to you and your pet, but “instantly deadly to fleas”. Does it work? I can’t honestly tell you, but I love the idea! One of these days I’ll get around to trying one!

As for the rest, they are time-honored methods for combating fleas and I can vouch for their effectiveness. Don’t forget that any method you choose will work best if you start using it about a month before flea season begins. And use it continuously once you’ve spotted fleas on your pet. That way, you’ll be sure you catch all fleas that survived as eggs and pupae, by being ready for them as they enter the vulnerable stages of their life cycle — larval and adult fleas.

Yippee!! No more fleas!!

Bed By Mother Nature

A comfy, supportive bed will give your dog a better quality of sleep. He’s probably already the most cheerful, enthusiastic member of the household, so imagine what he’ll be like after a superb night’s sleep! Proper sleep support at night will help prevent sore joints and muscles. If you have an older dog, you probably know that arthritis and other joint problems are common ailments. There are a variety of beds made with your older dog’s special needs in mind, such as heated beds and orthopedic designs.

Most dog beds are made with comfort and function in mind. To be sure you select the right dog bed for your particular dog, here are some
things you’ll need to consider:

- Always place your dog’s bed away from drafts and in a quiet
place where she’ll feel secure.

- A bed that fits your dog properly will be large enough so
that no part of your pet’s body hangs off the side. PetsMart provides this
convenient dog bed size chart which covers the most common breeds. If you don’t
see your dog’s breed in the chart, look for a breed of similar size. When in
doubt, a bed that’s a bit too large is better than one that’s too small.

- Most dog beds are made filled with foam. A heavy dog should have a bed
with foam thick enough to support his weight and pressure points.
Larger beds usually have thicker foam insides to allow for the heavier dogs who
sleep on them. An inch of foam is generally thick enough for the extra small to
medium dog, and two inches of foam is enough for the medium to large dog. Look
for three inches or more for the extra large breeds like St. Bernards.

- Puppies missing their moms will find great
comfort and will sleep through the night more easily when they feel as
though they’re close to their mother. High tech beds come with digitally
mastered heartbeats, but a good old fashioned ticking clock will often do
the trick. A bed with a pocket for a warmer is a nice touch, so your puppy
feels as though he’s snuggled up to his mom’s body heat. If he’s a
chwier, make sure the bed is covered with a sturdy fabric.
An older dog or a dog with muscle and joint problems will be most comforted
by an orthopedic bed and may benefit from the cooling effects that a “canine
cooler” can provide.

We all know that dogs love to play. Running, jumping, chasing, mouthing, chewing, wrestling, biting, and yes– even riding your leg–they’re all normal forms of play. You might want to discourage that last one, though, if you want to avoid public embarrassment.

Whatever your dog likes to use as a toy, make sure it’s safe.

It should be large enough that she can’t swallow it or choke on it and hard enough so that chewing won’t cause pieces to be bitten off and swallowed. If toys have holes or openings in them, be sure your pet can’t get his tongue or jaw stuck in the opening. The tongue can get stuck when it seals the only opening in the dog toy, creating suction. (One way around this is to punch
another small hole at the opposite end.) It’s always best to supervise you dog
for his first few days with a new toy, just to be sure he can play safely.

Dogs prefer to play with people or other dogs, but will play
alone if there’s no one around to entertain them. If you leave him alone for
long periods of time, be sure your dog has a favorite toy to keep him busy.

Food Dispensing Toys

Dog toys designed to dispense food can provide hours of fun
for the dog who’s left alone. These toys require your dog to chew, push, roll
and bat the toy around to get at the goodies inside. Great fun! If your dog
tends to use her paws a lot in play to stop or hold a ball, she’ll enjoy the one
she has to push around. If not, the chew types work best. This dog toy should be
properly designed for safety, so make sure you get one tough enough that your
dog won’t chew the toy to pieces (a choking hazard). Also be sure she can’t get
her jaw or tongue stuck in the opening (see above).

The treats are typically dry and in small pieces, e.g. kibble,
small biscuits, small cubes of hard cheese. Long thin bits which are easier to
load then to dispense back out, like pieces of beef jerky (doggie or human
style) about 1/4 inch wide and an inch long, work great too. There’s even a
vitamin-enriched paste made specifically for this type of dog toy

Chase and Fetch Toys

Dogs love to run and chase, and some of their favorite games are tug, fetch, and Frisbee. As always, safety is your first consideration. Make sure the dog toy is large enough for safety, but not so large or heavy that it’s tough for your pet to handle. Avoid toys with parts that she can chew off and swallow, or toys small enough that she can actually swallow the toy itself.

This type of play is a great way to keep your dog fit and work out stress or anxiety. We all know that a tired dog is a good dog! But be careful not to overdo it at first. Before starting any vigorous exercise program, a dog should get a clean bill of health from the vet–just as you would from your physician.

Some good toys for chasing and fetching are durable rubber balls, and rings, oversized tennis balls, plastic Frisbees and throwing discs.

Chase and fetch are normally not solitary sports, but there is
a way to set up a solitary chase game for your dog when he’s alone. You can set
up a ramp (a larger one for outdoors, or small for inside) that he’ll learn to
use for rolling a ball. I don’t know of any commercially available, but you can
make one by building a wooden cube about 2 feet to a side, then putting a ramp
up one side and down the other. For indoors, a baby slide about two feet high
works just as well.

It’s worth spending some time checking out the different
categories of fetch toys. Among them are Tennis Ball toys (toys made with tennis
balls and tennis ball materials), Giggly Wiggly toys (they make fun noises when
your dog plays with them), and Water Toys (all of them float, for good aquatic
dog toy fun!).

Chew and Tug Toys

I probably don’t need to tell you that dogs love to chew,
especially if you own a puppy. Dogs also love to wrestle and use their mouths,
so tug-of-war games come naturally for them. Just be careful that your dog
doesn’t have too much pent up energy or get too carried away. Dogs playing with
other dogs will wrestle and mouth each other without causing any harm. When they
do this with you it can be quite another story!

A dog toy that’s especially popular for tugging is the knotted
rope variety. You should resist making your own, since there is a danger of them
coming unknotted and frayed. Frayed pieces can be swallowed and cause
obstructions in the intestines. Commercially made rope toys of good quality will
resist unraveling and fraying. Keep an eye on things to be on the safe side.

Chew toys should be made of durable materials for the similar
reasons. You don’t want your friend to choke on little pieces. Fortunately,
there are some great ones available, made in a variety of sturdy materials.

Benefits of Clicker Training:

- Method based on positive reinforcement

- The dog learns on the move. He is happy and confident

- Learning is safer because there ‘s no confusion or conflict

- We always respect the dog

- The dog is more attentive

- The accuracy of the click ensures better learning

How Clicker Training Works

Clicker training is not a trick. It works. But you must use it properly. The
idea behind it is to teach your dog to associate the sound of the clicker with
your command. The click is a strong, sharp sound that dogs can hear from 20
yards away.

When you start using a clicker to train your dog, look for behaviors you want to reinforce. Whether it is sitting, speaking, or rolling over, once you’ve gotten your dog to do what you want you must mark their behavior with a click and a reward.

The form of rewards is crucial – it must be very very small (watch out, fingers!) Use something easy to swallow and digest, such as small bits of sausage, bits of cheese, chicken or liver …. If possible something soft and tasty.

If you use pieces that are too dry or too thick, the dog must first chew before swallowing them, which will take time. And you take the risk of him falling to the ground to chase scraps of food. That will distract the dog.

Once the dog has done the behaviour and received their reward, continue doing it to reinforce the behaviour as much as possible.
You do not have to use treats every time. Praise and petting work just as well
and can eventually replace the behaviour.

The following tips will help you discover the secret of successful training with
the clicker.

1: USE AN EFFECTIVE REWARD

2: USE THE CLICK TO MARK THE EVENT, NOT TO MARK THE REWARD

3: SAY THE COMMAND, THEN CLICK,THEN REWARD

Sample Clicker Exercise: Teaching your dog to look at you.

You take your clicker in hand and have the treat close by or in a pouch.

Your dog knows that it will be clicked and stands before you impatient.

Take a treat in the hand not holding the clicker and raise it until your arm is
horizontal. Your dog will normally stare at your hand because he knows that it
contains the treat.

You say nothing and wait. Seeing no treat coming, at some point your dog will
look at you. Aha! At this point you say “look”, then click, then drop the food
on the ground. The dog will quickly understand that only by looking at you can
he trigger the clicker and not by looking at the food.

Transitioning to a Command

Once your dog learns to associate all three (command, click, reward) you can
transition to using just the command without the clicker. We can remove the
“click” and reward a randomly throughout the life of the dog. If you do not ever
reward, you enter into a process of extinction because your dog’s behavior never
brings anything positive.

As you might imagine, clicker dog training has a number of applications. It can
make training your dog so much easier in many ways. With a simple, sharp
command, you can mark and reinforce nearly any behaviour.

Potty Mouth

Why Dogs Eat Poop

If you’ve ever watched your dog (or anyone else’s) eat their own droppings, you’ve probably wondered what the rest of us do; why the heck do dogs eat poop? It’s truly gross, unattractive and unhealthy. But it’s actually not uncommon. In fact it’s so common that it causes stress and embarrassment for a lot of owners.

The technical term for eating poop is “coprophagia”. Rabbits do it as part of their normal digestive process (their food doesn’t get broken down all the way unless they eat it twice).

But no so for dogs.

The simplest reason a dog might embrace this disgusting habit is that he’s hungry or trying to clean up his territory. If he’s not getting enough to eat or his pen is dirty your dog will often resort to eating his own excrement.

There may also be a reason you can trace back to a health issue. Poor nutrition or parasites that suck the nutrients out of your dog’s body could be the cause. Make sure you provide a good quality dog food that’s nutritionally balanced and have your dog dewormed if necesssary.

Eating poop can also be a sign that your dog is anxious.

Or, if you’re always picking up around the house and yard, he may be trying to find a way to mimic you! It’s also possible your pet is copying another dog’s behavior.

The main thing to tell yourself is that regardless of the reason, there are ways you can get your dog to stop eating poop.

Steps To Adjust Your Dog’s Behavior

First, make sure your poop-eating pet isn’t having any health problems. A health problem is more likely if your dog never had this habit before and has started doing it recently.

If your dog eats poop frequently he or she may have a tape worm or other parasite. Take him to the vet and get him checked out.

Second, your dog can’t eat it if it’s not there, so make sure you don’t have any droppings in your yard. Remove poop from the yard daily and check around your home and on paths near your home where others may have walked their dogs. No matter why your dog decides to eat his own excrement, if you remove the opportunity the behavior will go away.

You could also make your dogs poop taste bad. I know what you’re thinking. But yes, spraying it with bitter apple and cayenne pepper actually makes your dog think his poop doesn’t taste so good. It’s also been shown that feeding your best friend a spoonful of pumpkin puree a day will make their poop taste funny, and they’re lest interested in eating it.

Finally, try spraying your dog with water and yelling “NO!” every time he or she starts to eat poop.

In the end, taking away opportunity by removing poop from your dog’s surroundings is the simpleast way to deal with dogs who eat poop. But if your dog goes camping, to parks, etc., and is allowed to go unleashed, you’ll need to take more advanced steps.

Be consistent in adjusting your dog’s behavior and you’ll soon be rewarded with a dog who doesn’t eat poop. But as long as he does, please don’t let him lick your face!!

Dogs bark because they are dogs, after all. If you started meowing instead of talking, it would surprise you! They also bark because they are placed in situations where they may or must do so. And very often because their master did not teach them to be silent.

Why Do Dogs Bark?

See above! Given that all dogs bark (except the Basenji breed), they’re more likely to do so when theyr’e excited, angry or scared. Here are some specific reasons your dog may bark:

Territorial Barking

Barking to get Attention

Barking when they Greet you

Frustration Barking

Alarm Barking

Compulsive Barking

Barking Related to Injury or Illness

Clearly, barking is used in many ways when a dog wants to express himself. And
they’re going to want to do it sometimes no matter what you do to prevent it.

How To Stop Your Barking Dog

First, it’s important to observe such things as what your dog tends to bark at,
when he’s most likely to bark and if he has a specific trigger.

If he refuses to stop, consider whether his barking is justified. Generally it’s
excessive barking that can be controlled. How? Well, let’s take the common
example of territorial barking. To control it you must create a situation in
which your dog doesn’t feel the need to defend itself. You must assure him that
the household is secure and you are in charge. Be the alpha dog in your home and
your pet will sense that his space is protected.

Also, you can simply make it harder for your dog to see invaders. Close the
curtains so he can’t see the mailman and get a fence designed to block his view
outside the yard. Keep him away from windows when possible. You might also try
turning on some music to drown out the sound of passers by outside.

Now, what to do about the anxious dog? Anxiety issues will cause a dog to bark
when she’s separated from you. She may bark nonstop until you’re reunited. This
is usually the case when barking has been rewarded in the past. If you return
home and your dog barks with excitement, don’t give her attention right away.
Wait until she calms down.

Barking on command

However paradoxical it may seem, the dog who learns to bark on command is a good
start for teaching him silence. You do not teach your dog to bark, but to do it
only on command.

To teach him two options, take advantage of moments when he barks to say
“barking! “Or “speak “and then after a while, reward him. Once the dog starts to
bark when you say one or the other of these words, you’ll go to the second step,
the trigger for “stop barking”! While the dog is waiting for his reward, ask him
to stop, get the silence, and then reward him.

Your dog knows to bark and be quiet on command and even better, he has learned
to be silent even though he only started to bark.

Better late than …

To end with a positive thought, note that whatever the age of your dog, it is
possible to act. In the best case, you will simply stop the nuisance behavior
and, at worst, you can mitigate it.

Often, rather than blaming our dogs for barking, we must behave responsibly and
learn to teach them good behavior and good manners in our world of humans.

The happiest moments of a dog life often involve jumping, catching, and running. Dog agility training can really help dogs  enjoy their recreation time and age gracefully and happily.

What is dog agility training?

You’ve probably seen dog agility training on television. The dogs run a course of tire hoops, tunnels, see-saw, snowboarding, dog walking, jumps, hurdles, weaving poles, and an A-frame 3-meter. The cottage, sitting, down left, send aways and walking off leash are also included.

Who can participate?

Anyone with a dog can do agility training. There is no age limit for people or dogs. In fact, children and puppies are encouraged to participate. All breeds and sizes of dogs without a physical disability may benefit from the agility training. Make sure to check with your veterinarian before you begin agility training, if you have any doubts about the fitness of your dog.

What equipment is needed?

You as the trainer will need shoes and comfortable clothes that you can run in, because it is not only exercise for the dog. Your dog needs a leather or webbed advanced collar loop and a leather, nylon or rope leash. Do not use chain as it could get caught in the jumps.

Aspects of agility training for dogs

There are two sides of agility training for dogs. They are the obstacles and command training. There are also tips for training your dog.

Obstacles: Although it seems high to many traders, the A-frame is the best barrier to begin exercising. Plate walking and jumping and down the tunnel (dogs love to this obstacle) are also excellent for training the dog beginner.

The establishment of order is important to keep your dog disciplined both on the agility course and in general. Everyone knows that a dog must heel and rest. You must teach your dog to know and obey different commands: to go left and right, sit, and wait. After those are mastered, the dog must learn normal recall (returning when you call) and barriers finished reminders. Also important is the “send away” command, making the dog go in front of you.

Tips for Dog Agility Training

Start by getting the attention of your dog. Talk to him and give a small treat. Couple that  with the love he has for you, and he will be all ears. Be sure you have the correct leash (usually 6 feet) and a comfortable collar (measure the dog’s neck and add 2 inches) for your dog. Give praise often. “Tune in” to your dog to be sure she and you are ready to practice.

Here’s a final tip: make sure you and your dog will have fun. After all, jumping through hoops is supposed to be fun – at least if you’re a dog.

Your dog is your best friend, but not when he’s jumping all over your car and gnawing on your upholstry.  And when your dog decides to jump in your lap while you’re driving, you’ve got a problem.

Sometimes the hassle and distractions they cause when taking your dog on the road makes the risks outweigh the benefits. Not to mention the fact that you don’t want your pet to become a projectile if you have to stop short or have your dog fatally injured if an airbag deploys.

Pet barriers for cars are a great way to keep distractions to a minumum while you drive. They keep you and your pets safe and most can be adjusted to fit many different sizes and shapes of vehicle.

Here are some things to consider before you buy:

Are Pet Barriers for Cars Safe?

There’s no question that pet barriers dramatically reduce the number of pet injuries caused by sudden stops and swerves. They can save your dog’s life if you’re in a car accident.

Bar Barriers vs Mesh Barriers

There are two basic categories of pet barriers for cars. There’s the so-called tubular type made from rigid tubes of metal and the mesh type.

One common concern with bar barriers is that a dog’s head could get caught between the bars. To avoid this, measure your dog’s head in as many different dimensions as you can (head on, tilted sideways, cocked at an angle, etc.) before choosing any of the bar style pet barriers for cars. If you’re in doubt, get one with narrow spacing or opt for a mesh barrier instead.

Bar style pet barriers for cars are generally not the recommended type if you own a puppy, small dog, or cat,as they can easily get stuck or squeeze between the bars. There is a company called Barrie-Aire, however that claims to make a bar style with spacing small enough for puppies; their Euro Barrie-Aire is designed with larger spacing for bigger pets.

While mesh barriers are generally made to accommodate any size vehicle, the bar types require more careful measuring and you may need to purchase extension panels for the proper fit. That, of course, will add quite a bit to the cost.

Can I Use Pet Barriers for Cars of All Sizes?

When choosing the proper pet barrier for your vehicle you must be sure to measure the inside of your vehicle. This way you can select the correct model for your car.

If your car is very large or has bucket seats you may need to order an extension panel.

How Do Pet Barriers for Cars Install?

The bar types are usually held in place by tension mounting. Tension may be adjusted with threaded rods or sliding rods held in position with wing nuts. Some of them use suction cups to hold them in place. Whatever the system, the best ones don’t require tools and take only a few minutes to adjust.

One of the better mesh pet barriers for cars is the “Net Pet Barrier” (at drsfostersmtih.com) because of it’s sturdy concealed wire frame and a corded suspension system that adapts to any size vehicle. The drawback to installing this model of pet barrier is that it attaches via grommet strips that have to be affixed to the car’s interior. Before installing you have to clean the surface you’re attaching them to meticulously or the barrier won’t stay put. And once the fasteners are in place, you must wait overnight to let them set before installing the netting.

There are net style pet barriers for cars that are much easier to install but they also come loose much more easily.

Will Pet Barriers Ruin The Interior of My Car?

None of the pet barriers for cars that I’ve researched involve drilling any holes. But they do use tension (in the case of the bar types) which could leave a permanent indent in your car interior. And the mesh type like the one mentioned above have a 3M self adhesive that can be difficult if not impossible to remove.

That said, how much damage will your pet do if you let him or her roam free?

What’s the Best One To Buy?

That all depends on your needs.  Look around, check out reviews from satisfied customers. Take your dogs personality into account.  A simple  trapeze style (shown above), for example,  might be all you need for the laid-back or older dog who just wants a comfortable place to relax.  There’s plenty of choices and what’s best depends on your needs and what will work best for your dog.

So, don’t they deserve nice clothes, parties and gifts, just like we do?

Aside from all of the care attention lavished on America’s pets, a tremendous amount of money is spent providing goods and services that were once deemed a luxury– but are now considered essential.

But one of the most notable signs that we regard our dogs as members of our family is the fact that we buy them gifts. A dog gift for the holidays, a dog gift for a special occasion, or a dog gift to show our appreciation for how much our dogs appreciate us. Any reason will do. Heck, we even wrap our dog gifts!

Here are some very interesting statistics regarding gifts for pets:

* More than half of U.S. households have pets, and many of them are including their “best friends” in holiday plans.

* According to a survey conducted by the Pet Supplies “Plus” chain, 97% of its customers will buy gifts for their animals this Yuletide season.

* 28% of owners will spend more on their pets than on their spouses when buying gifts.

* 47% will spend more on their pets than on relatives other than their spouse.

* 54% will spend more on their pets than on their in-laws.

* 83% will wrap their pets’ gifts.

* 68% claim that their pets will unwrap presents themselves with their paws.

* 71% will buy something practical for them.

The good news is, there’s no shortage of goods and services to inspire even the most rabid of dog lovers and dog gift shoppers.

So go ahead, spoil your furry friends.  They deserve it. Shower them with goodies and gifts. It’s a dog’s life. And if I get to come back for another round, I want it to be as one of those lucky dogs!!

Even the experts seem to disagree on exactly what complete nutrition is. Maybe this explains why there are so many formulas for premium dog food out there. There’s one thing they do agree on, though: premium dog food is better for your pet than economy and grocery store brands. Although you’ll pay more, it usually holds true that you get what you pay for.

Experts also agree that, because premium foods are more nutritionally dense and easier to digest, your dog won’t need to eat as much. One study even concluded that if you fed your dog the recommended amounts on each package, you’d end up saving money on the premium formulas. That’s because your dog needs to eat a lot less of it. (You’ll save on pooper scoopers too!)

Another way to know if your dog is getting a proper diet is simply to
observe him. Are his eyes bright, his coat silky and shiny, and his skin free
from dryness and itching? Is he at a healthy weight? How about his energy level?
This may vary from one animal to another, but as you get to know yours, you’ll
know when your dog isn’t feeling up to par.

Of course, any persistent health problems should be looked into by your vet,
and the same goes for any special dietary needs. But in general you’ll know if
your friend is doing well on the diet you’re feeding him. If you see signs that
he isn’t, try a different formula or another brand of premium dog food.
Introduce new foods gradually, especially if you have a picky eater. And
while we’re on that subject, it’s always nice if your dog enjoys eating his
food. This has a lot less to do with taste than it does with smell. Dogs have
fewer taste buds than we do, but about 40 times as many scent receptors. So make
sure he eats with gusto, and doesn’t just pick at his food.

Here are some basic guidelines you can follow:

Essential Nutrients

Every dog needs the right amounts of proteins, carbohydrates, fats, vitamins,
minerals, and water. Your dog must have all these in correct proportions to stay
healthy. Needs vary with life stage, breed and activity level. Dog food
companies make premium dog food for all life stages, from puppy to senior. An
average adult dog needs a daily intake of about five ounces for every ten pounds
of weight, with essential nutrients in the following proportions:

Protein –23% of total intake

Fats –5% of total intake

Carbohydrates –65% of total intake

Additional vitamins and minerals your dog needs are: Vitamins A, D, E,
B-complex, Niacin, Biotin, Folic Acid, Choline, and Pantothenic Acid; Calcium,
Phosphorus, Potassium, Sodium Chloride, Magnesium, Iron, Copper, Manganese,
Zinc, Iodine, and Selenium

It’s generally agreed that dogs do better on a protein source that’s
primarily meat rather than soybeans and grains. Check the label. All US food
labels must list ingredients in order of their quantity. If meat by-products are
listed, they should come after the real meat, not before it. Meat by products
are an inferior source of protein, and are basically what remains after the good
quality meat has been removed. “Crude protein” can be a similarly poor source,
since it may include parts of the animal that can’t even be digested or absorbed
by the average dog (hair, beaks, etc.).

Omega fatty acids are a hot topic in human nutrition these days, and have
been found to be just as important in the canine diet. Both should be present,
and in the right ratio. Most premium dog food companies have done the research
on this and adjusted the ratios, but as usual, ask your vet if your uncertain.

Wet vs. Dry

You can buy premium dog food in just about any form, but which one is best? Again, most experts seem to agree. Dry food is less likely to allow plaque to accumulate on the teeth, less likely to harbor bacteria if left out too long, and results in firmer, more compact stools. Semi-moist foods are convenient but for some reason (I’m not sure what) don’t offer the same nutritional benefits as premium kibble or canned foods.

That said, I have also heard arguments suggesting that a diet of exclusively dry food can be a strain on a dog’s kidneys. So,  to be on the safe side, check with your vet.

Is a premium dog food really that much better for your dog?

If you’re interested in premium dog food, then I probably don’t have to tell
you about the importance of diet in keeping your dog active and healthy.
You already know you want something better than “average” for your furry
friend.

But how much do you really know about what’s in a premium food and what your
particular pet’s needs are? I’m no veterinarian but I do know a thing or two
about health and nutrition. (As a family dentist who practiced for twenty years,
I saw first hand the effects of poor dietary habits on human health — and
particularly on human teeth!!).

Like you, your dog has to deal with the effects of stress, age, exertion, a
polluted environment, and foods grown in nutrient-depleted soils. Unlike you,
he has to get practically all of his nutrition from a single food. Sure ,
you may give him a few treats or the occasional table scrap (not too many I
hope!), but otherwise he’s eating out of the same bag or can day in and day out.
You want him to get complete nutrition out of that one food.

Life Stages

Puppies need more calories and essential nutrients than adult dogs.
They need up to twice as many calories per ounce of body weight and should get
25% to 30% of their energy from protein depending on the breed. Most premium dog
food brands take this into account in their puppy formulas, but it doesn’t hurt
to check the label. By six to eight weeks of age a puppy should be fully weaned
and eating his dry food consistently. After that, different breeds reach their
mature weight at different rates, by anywhere from 9 months to 24 months old. So
it’s hard to give an age or weight by which you should take your pet off puppy
food. Again, your vet can help out here. Also, remember not to try to “rush” the
growing process by overfeeding. If she grows too fast, a dog can develop bone
growth diseases. A puppy should get three to four meals a day because he’s
growing fast but still has a small tummy, but don’t overdo it with portions
size.

Adult dogs need to eat according to their size and energy requirements
and should be fed two meals a day. This is frequently referred to by the premium
dog food companies as a “maintenance diet”. Unlike cats, dogs are not strictly
meat eaters. In fact, a dog is more like an omnivore and will eat just about
anything, whether it’s good for him or not! A certain amount of vegetable matter
is part of a dog’s natural diet. Dogs love vegetables such as broccoli, carrots,
zucchini, peas, and beans, and fruits such as bananas, apples, and melon. These
make great low-calorie treats, too! One thing you should never feed your dog is
chocolate–it contains a chemical called theobromine which is toxic to dogs.

Senior dogs need a premium dog food that will help head off and manage
the effects of aging. Since different breeds vary so much, it’s hard to give an
age by which you should switch to a senior diet. The ASPCA recommends using
weight as a guideline, and offers the following table:

They recommend that you begin dealing with the symptoms of old age before
they’re obvious. Just like us, dogs will begin to accumulate more body fat as
they age even as they consume fewer calories. (At least we’re not alone!).
Muscle mass will tend to decrease, but this doesn’t mean you should lower your
older dog’s protein intake. If anything, protein is more important than ever to
help maintain muscle mass, so avoid senior dog food formulas with reduced
protein. One thing you will want to feed him less of is calories. Obesity
is a real problem with adult dogs, and many owners don’t even realize their dog
is overweight. Aside from portion size and calorie content, one way to avoid an
overweight dog is to resist giving him table scraps. Human food isn’t good for
your dog.

How Much to Feed

How’s your dog’s weight? You should be able to feel your dog’s backbone and
ribs with light finger pressure, but not actually see them. If you have to “dig”
to find them, your dog is overweight and if you can actually see her ribs, she’s
underweight. If you’re not sure how much to feed, look online for and
interactive dog food calculator.

Now you can determine the right amount of food to feed your dog and find out
how long that 40-lb bag will last!

Supplements

If you’re all ready feeding a nutritionally complete premium dog food, do you
still need supplements? This is another hotly debated topic. As a rule, it seems
that most dogs do just fine without supplements. For certain dogs and certain
conditions supplements can make a differenced. For example, a dog who isn’t
thriving and there’s no other medical explanation for it might improve with
supplements. Or, dogs with certain skin conditions have been known to improve on
supplements. Since there’s a danger of doing more harm than good, you should
definitely discuss supplements with your vet. And if you do decide to use one,
pick one that’s made from natural sources and is designed as a multivitamin
formulated specifically for dogs. That way she’ll get everything in the right
amounts and ratios. Add it to the diet twice weekly so you won’t overwhelm or
suppress your dog’s own internal regulating mechanisms.

Special Diets

There are many reasons why a dog might be put on a special diet. Some dogs are very sensitive to certain ingredients in commercial dog foods. Even if you’re feeding her the best of premium dog food , if your dog isn’t thriving, it’s possible her diet is a problem for her. Owners have resorted to alternative diets — holistic, raw foods, even kosher — to optimize their pet’s health. Some choose these diets simply because they believe they’re better, not because their dog is having any issues.

We’ll discuss special diets in a future article. For now, I hope you’ve gained some useful insights about the benefits of premium dog food over and above economy brands.

You might want to choose a name for your dog that suits his or her personality or status.

Here are some Dog Names with Latin Translations

Your dogs health is naturally very important to you. The gift of good health is the best present you can give her, and you want to be sure you get all the facts so she can get the best care possible

Routine Checkups

Nothing improves a dogs health and her chances for a long, happy life better than regular checkups. A checkup should include a complete physical exam and will let you know if your best friend needs any special care or testing, grooming or training.

Remember that your pet ages around seven years for every one of your years, so checkups should start in puppyhood and be repeated every six months. If you need help finding a vet in your area.

Diet and Nutrition

Your dogs health depends strongly on what you feed him. Although his needs will vary at different stages of life, a good quality diet is always the key to well being and prevention of disease.

Dogs eat a varied diet–unlike cats, they aren’t strictly meat eaters–and they will eat just about anything you offer. (Some experts have suggested that this is why a dog’s digestive system goes into “reverse” a lot more easily than ours.)

Because he’ll happily swallow what isn’t good for him, it’s up to you to offer your dog healthy choices. Dogs are such persuasive beggars that this isn’t always easy. Just remember, your dogs health is at stake. Avoid feeding table scraps, and only give treats as a reward for desired behavior. Don’t let your dog “train” you to give him a treat every time he does something cute!

If you do have a tendency to give in, or if your dog is good at snatching your food while you’re distracted, you should make sure you know which food are hazardous to your dogs health. Also be sure to read up on how chocolate is toxic to dogs (and what chocolate and mulch have in common!)

Vaccinations

Your dogs health starts with receiving vaccinations as a puppy and continues with boosters as an adult. Vaccinations will protect her from a wide range of diseases whose symptoms range from mild to deadly. Check the table below for a recommended schedule. (courtesy of PetSmart).

*Check with your veterinarian as to type of vaccine and state regulations.

Parasite Control

Parasites come in many sizes and varieties. We’ve all heard of tapeworm and heartworm. These are the more common among the many types of worms that can affect your dogs health. Some are even contagious to humans.

Worms that attach themselves to your dog’s intestinal lining actually compete with him for nutrients. The result is lack of energy, stunted growth, and malnutrition. It also results in painful diarrhea. Routine de-worming, fecal checks, and providing your puppy with heartworm prevention will decrease the chances of infection.

Heartworm is transmitted from dog to dog by mosquitoes and invades both heart and lungs. The worm’s offspring are microscopic and circulate in the bloodstream, where they can be detected by a blood test (this should be done annually). Symptoms of heartworm may not be detected for as much as a year after infestation and may be as mild as a slight cough at first. But as things progress, respiratory disease and congestive heart failure occur, and the liver and kidneys suffer as well. At this stage your dog is too sick to be treated. Prevention is the key to avoiding fatal heartworm disease.

Giardia is another common parasite that can invade the digestive system and also be transmitted to humans. It is debilitating to both dog and human and can be prevented through vaccination.

Reproductive Health

There are many reasons to consider having your pet spayed or neutered. Once dogs reach sexual maturity, they’re prone to certain behaviors such as fighting and marking, and are more likely to roam (especially males). Dogs can also develop cancer of the reproductive organs. Overpopulation is an issue too, which may not directly affect your dogs health, but affects the quality of life for many dogs who can’t find good homes.

Most spaying and neutering is done at the age of 4 to 6 months, but it’s best to discuss all of your options with your vet. If you suspect it’s too late, or if you’re interested in breeding your female dog, a canine pregnancy test has the following advantages:

Canine Pregnancy Test

Can be used at 22 days gestation or after for:

• Early detection of planned or unplanned pregnancy.
• Detection of pregnancy before or after abortion treatment.
• Early detection of false pregnancy.
• Diagnose fetal resorption or spontaneous abortion.
• No refrigeration required.

Dental Health

Having served the human population as a family dentist for twenty years, I feel uniquely qualified to discuss the importance of good dental care to a dogs health! It’s estimated that 80 percent of dogs over the age of 3 have periodontal disease, an infection which causes deterioration of the gums and supporting bone around the teeth. Just like in humans, the disease begins as simple gingivitis (inflamed, bleeding gums) which is 100% treatable. Left unchecked, it becomes irreversibly destructive. See our separate post on Dental Health for your dog.

Emergencies

Just as you would for your human family, you should keep a first aid kit on hand for your dog, in case of emergencies. You can find a good one at the larger pet supply stores.

Volunteering at the local soup kitchen isn’t the only way to help the homeless. Here are some ways to uplift some of God’s less fortunate four-legged creatures.

The holidays are a wonderful time of year, full of excitement , expectation, and celebration. But for many it’s also a difficult time. This is especially true for anyone not blessed with a close, supportive family, or those physically separated from loved ones. Consider, among these unlucky souls, the four legged ones who have to spend  their holidays–all of their days, in fact–at the local ASPCA or animal shelter. These poor creatures have little to look forward to besides hoping that some nice family will adopt them some day.

Pets need new games, new toys, new smells and experiences, and above all, exercise to be happy. Dogs in shelters can get depressed, lose their appetites, and become more susceptible to illness. I was pondering this recently, when a light bulb turned on in my head (figuratively, not literally).  “Why not get all these lonely and stressed-out souls together?”, I thought.Now, I’m not implying  that everyone who’s feeling a little despondent or stressed during  the holidays should run out and adopt a pet. Bringing home a new dog is a serious commitment and should be done for the right reasons, and with plenty of forethought. But there are other ways to bring  the gift of good cheer.

A lifting of the spirits is not only a rewarding gift to give, but is good medicine for animals and people alike.  A happier animal is a healthier animal, and probably a more adoptable one. And a happier human is not only healthier, but more apt to enjoy the season of giving. What could be more uplifting for both dog and human than bringing some inexpensive “dog gift baskets” to a local shelter, and watching the residents enjoy them? You — or the “holiday-challenged” people in your life– could fill up a basket (or two, or three!) with healthy pet treats, amusing toys, or comfy blankets. You might want to check first to see if the shelter in your area allows this, or if they have a need for particular items.

If cat or dog gift baskets aren’t an option, offer to take a canine resident for a walk. I recently learned about a retired couple who does this on a regular basis. They spend their entire day at the local shelter, making sure that every single dog has been walked. The couple does this twice a week, all year round. The dogs love it, and it’s wonderful exercise for all concerned.

But you don’t have to do anything as time-consuming as all that. Just show up once or twice. A walk and some fresh air is a great  way to alleviate holiday stress and you’re sure to catch some of the light-hearted spirit that radiates from a happy dog. Tell a friend about it. Maybe they’ll give it a try. Some might be inspired enough to become “hometown heros”,  like the couple mentioned above.

You might know an older retiree who considers dog ownership too much of a burden, but wouldn’t mind taking a dog  for a walk.   If it’s a  friend or family member who walks but no longer drives, perhaps you could  volunteer to drop them off and pick them up. There are numerous studies showing the benefits to older citizens of having this kind of contact with pets. (Read more about the benefits to the elderly at Pets For The Elderly

Giving freely of ourselves is one of best gifts we can give. But if all of this seems too time consuming, then a small financial donation would still go a long way. Lots of shelters have fund raisers this time of year, and odds are you won’t have to look far to find one. In the end, it’s caring that really matters.

“Magoo was a big, playful Labrador retriever who often got himself into sticky situations…”

So begins a story in the latest report from the ASPCA on foods that may be toxic to dogs. It turns out that Magoo got into the pantry and snagged himself about a pound of raisins. He ate the whole thing, of course.

The ASPCA never mentions what happens to Magoo after that. But they do tell us that as little as a handful of raisins can affect a dogs health and has been fatal for some. Ditto for the grape.

Licking the Plate

Growing up, we regarded our family dogs as “the first cycle of the dishwasher”. They were good about waiting their turn for whatever we left on our plates. It never crossed our minds that our dogs health could be affected by a few measly table scraps. What was safe for us, we figured, was safe for our pets. Not so….

Why are grapes harmful?

As far as grapes and raisins go, no one is sure why they’re harmful. It’s been confirmed that even grapes grown without fertilizers or pesticides can be toxic to dogs. But not to every dog, and not every time. It’s also not known whether small amounts eaten over a long time period could have a cumulative effect.

What we do know is that the end result in nearly all reported cases of grape or raisin toxicity is acute kidney failure. (The term “acute” means that the condition is severe and comes on quickly.) The dog ultimately can’t produce urine, which means they can’t filter toxins out of their systems — a process essential to life.

During the twelve-month period in which the effects of grapes were studied, the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center handled 140 cases involving one or more dogs. Over a third of the dogs developed symptoms ranging from vomiting to kidney failure, and seven dogs died. The ASPCA based their study on reported cases, so naturally there may be cases where a dogs health is entirely unaffected by eating grapes. But until they know all the facts, the Society advises against feeding pets grapes or raisins in any amount.

It’s Not Just the Grapes…

There are other foods your dog should be kept away from, and some of them may surprise you.

Here are some other foods that can put a dogs health in harms way:

Chocolate

Who can resist chocolate? Like it your not, your dog. Chocolate is made with cocoa beans and cocoa beans contain a chemical called Theobromine, which is toxic to dogs. So on Valentine’s Day, you’re actually being kind to your best buddy if you eat all the chocolates yourself! Read my special report on chocolate at http://www.great-dog-gift.com/chocolate to learn more, and see how different types of chocolate have varying effects on dogs health.

Cocoa Mulch

Cocoa bean shells are a by-product of chocolate production (which is how mulch made it into the “foods” category) and are popular as mulch for landscaping. Homeowners like the attractive color and scent, and the fact that the mulch breaks down into an organic fertilizer. However, some dogs like to eat it and it contains Theobromine.

Fatty foods

Fatty foods are hard for a dog to digest and can can overtax the pancreas, leading to pancreatitis. This can threaten your dogs health and is potentially fatal.

Nuts

Macadamia nuts should be avoided. In fact most nuts are not good for a dogs health since their high phosporus content is said to lead to bladder stones.

Mulch

Mulch isn’t food, but there’s one type tempting enough for dogs to eat. Some dogs are attracted to cocoa mulch, and will eat it in varying quantities. The coca bean shells can contain from 0.2% to 3% theobromine (the toxin ) as compaired to 1-4% in unprocessed beans.

Onions

Onions, especially raw onions, have been shown to trigger hemolytic anemia in dogs. (Stephen J Ettinger, D.V.M and Edward C. Fieldman, D.V.M. ‘s book: Textbook of Veterinary Internal Medicine vol. 2 pg 1884.) Stay away from onion powder too.

Potatoes

Potato poisonings among people and dogs are rare but have occurred. The toxin, solanine, is poorly absorbed and is only found in green sprouts (these occur in tubers exposed to sunlight) and green potato skins. This explains why incidents seldom occur. Note that cooked, mashed potatoes are fine for a dogs health, actually quite nutritious and digestible.

Artificial Sweeteners

Xylitol is used as a sweetener in many products, especially sugarless gum and candies. Ingesting large amounts of products sweetened with xylitol may cause a sudden drop in blood sugar in dogs, resulting depression, loss of coordination, and seizures. According to Dr. Eric K. Dunayer, a consulting veterinarian in clinical toxicology for the poison control center, “These signs can develop quite rapidly, at times less than 30 minutes after ingestion of the product” states Dr. Dunayer, “…therefore, it is important that pet owners seek veterinary treatment immediately.”

Turkey

Turkey skin is currently thought to cause acute pancreatis in dogs, partly due to it’s high fat content.

Other foods listed by the ASPCA as harmful:

Alcoholic beverages

Avocado (the only “fatty” member of the vegetable family)

Coffee (all forms of coffee)

Moldy or spoiled foods

Salt

Yeast dough

Garlic

An ounce of prevention

So, your dog just scored himself a big box of raisins. What’s a pet owner to do?

The first line of defense, if the grapes or raisins were eaten recently, is to induce vomiting and administer activated charcoal (it absorbs toxins in the GI tract). Vomiting is also the first sign that your dog is in trouble, so skip right to the activated charcoal if vomiting has already occurred. (In a pinch you can make your own activated charcoal by charring a piece of toast until it’s blackened and crumbles easily.) Then call your vet right away.

Can’t reach the vet? Call ASPCA Poison Control:
888-426-4435

The vet will keep your dog on intravenous fluids for at least 48 hours and monitor blood chemistry daily. Normal blood work after 3 days usually means your dog is in the clear.

Keeping a watchful eye out, of course, is the best way to keep your pet out of trouble. Like children, dogs (and other pets) have a knack for getting into mischief when we’re not looking.

The Bottom Line

Thanks to a more educated public, fewer fatalities from foods like chocolate are being reported these days. But it’s important to keep up with what’s currently known about foods and their effects on dogs health. Grapes and cocoa mulch, for example, were only discovered very recently to have harmful effects. Check frequently with sources like the ASPCA, or sign up for the “Cold Noses News” and we’ll keep you informed. (You’ll also get a bunch of cool dog stuff along with your free registration).

Of course, being alert and getting your pet to the vet promptly will help assure a happy outcome if something unfortunate should happen. Here’s to your dogs health and good nutrition!

Resources:

For more information on keeping your household pet-friendly, see “a poison safe home” at the ASPCA website.
And to be sure your dog’s food isn’t on the endangered list, do a monthly check of the ASPCA’s pet food recalls.

A dentist’s point of view on oral care for your pet.

Your dogs health is important to you. You show her how important by keeping her well fed and groomed, making sure she gets plenty of exercise and providing a collection of fun, safe toys for her entertainment. You don’t skimp on the quality of his food. And to reward good boys and girls, there are always lots of delicious treats in the cupboard.

But if he has bad breath, you could be overlooking a serious problem with your dogs health.

“Dog Breath” is such a common condition that we make jokes about it. Sometimes we even tease our human “friends” using “dog breath” in play-ground style name-calling ( although hopefully this is limited to teenage boys.) And I know many pet owners who comment that they love their dog or cat like a child, but just can’t stand the smell of the animal’s breath! Well, guess what? “Dog Breath” isn’t normal.

It’s estimated that 80 percent of dogs and 70 percent of cats over the age of three suffer from the periodontal disease — a serious deterioration of the gums and supporting bones of the teeth. Yes, it’s periodontal disease that’s responsible for “dog breath”. But the problem doesn’t confine itself to your furry baby’s mouth. It’s an infection, and the tiny creatures responsible for it can break loose and enter the bloodstream. Once they do, they can infect vital organs such as the liver and kidneys, endangering your dogs health by causing a far more serious illness.

The best way to insure your dogs health, especially where periodontal disease is concerned, is with prevention. It can make all the difference.

Periodontal disease begins as gingivitis, which is virtually harmless and completely treatable. If allowed to move to the next stage–Periodontitis– it can be stopped, but not cured. And the worse it gets, the faster it progresses. This applies to all animals, two legged and four legged alike. Think of a car parked at the top of a hill. The emergency break is released, and the car begins to roll downhill. Now, if you hit the breaks right away, no harm done. But the farther the car rolls the faster it goes, and the more momentum it builds. It gets harder and harder to stop it. By the time it’s halfway down the hill, you could be headed for disaster!

You can maintain your dogs health nicely with proper home care. But, like the rolling car, if disease is already present, stopping and controlling it is a bigger job.

Prevention involves, above all, regular veterinary checkups and professional cleanings beginning early in your dog or cat’s life. I’ll show you how you
can help maintain oral health at home, but it’s impossible to do a thorough cleaning on an animal who’s awake. Trust me on this. It’s hard enough to do a thorough job with a cooperative human patient. When we’re talking about animals who don’t understand what we’re doing or why, forget about it.

Most veterinarians recommend annual cleanings, but more frequent or involved treatment may be needed depending on your animal’s condition. Please, no matter what you’re doing at home, follow the vet’s recommendations. As for your part, introduce your dog or cat to the idea of having his teeth brushed as early as possible. I know, it’s not easy, and it takes time and daily conditioning to get your little guy or gal used to it. But your dogs health is worth it!

So how do you prevent the most common of threats to your dogs health? Brush her teeth, of course! Every day. Just like you would your own (twice a day for you, and floss too!!). This isn’t easy, but it can become an expected part of your dog’s routine if you do it right. Here are some suggestions:

1. Start when your dog is a puppy. The earlier the better.

2. At first, you just want her to get used to you handling her head and looking inside her mouth. Practice lifting up her lips and looking at
her teeth and gums–front, back and both sides of her mouth.

3. Now begin gently touching the gum tissue with your finger and rub along her gums and teeth as if your finger were a toothbrush. Let her get used to the sensation. This is exactly the way you would introduce a human baby to brushing, beginning with just her gums. Even before there are teeth, there are harmful bacteria. So don’t worry about a tiny puppy who doesn’t have a full set of teeth yet–rub her gums, swab out her little mouth with your finger, and get her used the this kind of contact from her owner.

4. Your next step is to wrap gauze or a soft washcloth around your finger and rub the gums on both the outer and inner surfaces of the teeth.

5. Finally, introduce a tooth brush in one small area. As your dog gets used to the brush, you will be able to use it in place of the gauze or
washcloth. Remember to brush the inside surfaces!

A little brushing a day, beginning with the first step and working your way up gradually, will eventually lead to a one to two minute session. Your dog will learn that it doesn’t hurt and that she gets a couple of minutes of your undivided attention every day. It generally takes 8 to 16 weeks to get there, but in the end your dog will accept brushing as part of her daily routine.

If a little brushing is done every day at a set time, eventually your pet gets used to it, and some will even look forward to it. It will take most pet owners from 8-16 weeks until the pet accepts it readily. Now the pet realizes it doesn’t hurt and that it will get 1-2 minutes of your undivided attention. Your pet enjoys your attention, and will eventually wait patiently for you to brush his teeth.

There’s a toothbrush with three heads that will allow you to brush all three surface of the tooth at one time, which makes life a lot easier for both of you! It also has nice, soft bristles so you won’t harm your pet’s delicate gum tissue.There are also products that can be rubbed on the gums and added to the drinking water to help reduce bacteria in an animal’s mouth and promote the dogs health and healing. Bad breath is actually a by-product of the bacteria that populate the mouth. They break down proteins and carbohydrates from your dog or cat’s diet, and produce something called “volatile sulfur compounds”, or VSC’s. It’s the sulfur that make the breath smell extra special!

Certain dental products have an agent that neutralizes the VSC’s. Many owners have commented that their cat or dog seems to like the drinking water better when these products are added–even though they have no flavor! And there’s a gel available that, although formulated for the gums, can be very soothing for skin conditions, cuts, and surgical wounds thanks to the Aloe Vera it contains.

The best oral care products work without the use of fragrances and flavors, which entice human consumers, but don’t benefit your cat or dogs health in any way!

I was a practicing dentist for over 20 years, and I saw a lot of human patients who had terrible breath (and periodontal disease) and weren’t even aware of it. People don’t like to tell each other about bad breath. Even the dentist has to be delicate with this piece of bad news.

At least when dealing with a pet, you don’t have to worry about social embarrassment in order to address your dogs health problem! Don’t be shy, get in there and do something about it. Not only can your dog get rid of her breath odor, but she could even live 2 to 5 years longer as a result. And you’ll be able to get close again, without holding your breath.

What Causes Aggressive Behavior in Dogs?

As early as 6 weeks of age, dog aggression can start to rear it’s ugly head. This is a critical time for a puppy, when it must be socialized with other dogs and receive the necessary training to prevents it from biting others. This socialization period normally goes on until the dog reaches 14 weeks but it may extend even further.

Here’s What This Means to You…

First, never separate a puppy away from its littermates before 8 weeks of age.

An eight to ten week old puppy should never be disciplined harshly and should always be treated gently.

Hitting, yelling or other severe punishment at this tender age can, as time goes on, lead to aggressive behavior in dogs.

Your dog must have been properly socialized with people and other dogs when he reaches 14 weeks to avoid problems and future attacks.

Aggressive behavior in dogs can be traced back to a number of factors, the most obvious being genetic. That is, certain dog breeds are known to be mroe aggressive than others. But your dog’s breed is by no means a guarantee that he will be aggressive or gentle. Also, if your dog has not been spayed or neutered he or she will be more prone to aggression. But environment is by far the most critical of all factors that contribute to aggression in dogs. If a dog is raised in a harsh environment, not taught to get along with people and other dogs, or has been attacked and frightened by people or fellow dogs you’ll be much more likely to see aggression in that dog as it grows up.

Who’s the Leader of Your Pack?

Canine aggression can also develop from the need to establish a pack hierarchy. Biting, aggressive stances, and other aggressive behaviors are usually the dog’s way of testing out his or her dominance. Just as you do with young children, you need to establish who’s boss while your dog is still a pup. And be sure to maintain your alpha position through his adolescence or he will take over your household!

A Bit of Dog Psychology

Dogs establish what we call “guardable resources” in their lives. Their food, their toys, their territories are carefully guarded against others who might take them. Your dog may come to think of YOU as a guardable resource as well. After all, you’re an important source of attention, affection and security. That explains why a dog may show aggressive behavior toward anyone who tries to get too close to you, even a spouse. Establinshing yourself as the leader of the pack makes it less likely your dog will think he or she owns you!

Can We Stop Aggressive Behavior in Dogs Who Are Already Grown?

After age 14 months or when your dog reaches sexual maturity (and especially after spaying or neutering), aggressive behavior is a dangerous problem. If your dog lashes out you must correct him immediately. For starters you must be sure he understands who’s boss. If you haven’t established yourself as the pack leader you must do it now or you’ll never get your dog under control. Never reward your dog for aggressive behavior even if it happens when he or she is frightened.

Train your dog so he follows your commands. Establish a regular schedule for meals and exercise. Have a strong authorit figure in your household for your dog. If you show deference to your dog or let him or her have his way around the house, she’ll show more aggression toward others.

The Defensive Dog

If your dog is on the defensive, he may try to lash out at a person out of fear. A defensive-aggressive dog has probably not been properly socialized. Keep your pet away from young children (they often see kids as a direct threat) and enroll in some training or with a dog behaviourist. That will help get your dog to gradually acclimate to a social environment.

Aggressive behavior in dogs is a very serious and common problem that many owners share, but it can be controlled, even as your dog ages. If your dog’s aggression ever progresses to violence, consider hiring a professional to intervene before someone gets hurt and that your dog is held liable.

When you first take your puppy or dog home, it is essential that he has somewhere safe and secure to go and rest, and is not constantly fussed over – children are often fascinated by sleeping dogs. Dog Crates are the perfect place!

Most dogs really love their crates. There’s something about a good dog crate that makes your best friend feel safe and secure. The reason for this is instinct. Dogs are members of the wolf family, and both wolves and wild dogs live in dens, which provide protection and a great deal of physical comfort.

In nature, the den would have a low ceiling and narrow walls. Thus, in the absence of a crate, you may notice your dog will try to curl up under a table, chair, or some other enclosed space. He has an instinctive tendency to seek out some type of den for shelter. Without the security of a small enclosed space many dogs will become anxious trying to find their “den” in your home. Trying to patrol a wide open space can leave them feeling insecure.

Choosing the Right Crate

Give him the right dog crate and your dog will have a place to call his own. You should buy a crate that’s 1.5 times your dog’s length, and he should be able to comfortably stand up and turn around. If your dog isn’t finished growing, buy a crate large enough to accommodate the size you expect him to reach. Then, place a partition in the crate at 1 1/2 times his length, and adjust it as he grows. Use something he can’t destroy or chew pieces out of, like a strong piece of plywood.

Placing a crate pad inside will make things more cozy. Wire crates are the most popular among owners, trainers, vets, and breeders. They provide maximum visibility and good ventilation. They’re also collapsible which makes cleaning, storage and transportation easy. Midwest is the most popular brand due to it’s excellent quality, value and time tested performance.

Basic Rules for Crate Training

A dog crate is the perfect place for a dog to go when he needs a safe, secure place to rest and get away from it all. If you put his crate in the kitchen, he has the advantage of being in what’s usually the most heavily trafficked area of the house, with a floor that’s easy to clean in case of “accidents”. From here, he can get accustomed to all of the sights and sounds and especially smells (a dog’s most acute sense) around his new family from a safe vantage point. Make the crate feel like home by placing a comfy blanket or pillow inside. There are also commercial crate pads, covers and bedding available.

Just set up the crate, then put in his bed, and couple of chews and cover the floor with newspapers – this will be sufficient. Add a few safe toys and she’s set to go.

Introduce your dog to his crate gradually, and take him outside often enough that accidents won’t happen in the dog crate. Keep the crate and pan clean and sanitary, and make sure it’s in a place that gives him enough quiet so he can relax. If your kitchen is never quiet, consider placing a second crate in a less busy part of the house.

Never use a crate to punish or shout at your dog, it must be a place of security that he enjoys to going. Spend time playing with him inside, if there is room. Initially let him find his own way in before closing the door.

Length Of Time A Dog Should Be In The Crate

It is recommended during the puppy training process, that the puppy should be in the crate a maximum of 1 hour per month of age. Once he is trained, do not leave the puppy in the crate more than 4 hours. For dog training, an adult dog (1 year of age) should be in the crate no longer than 8 hours at one time.

Crate Training for Puppies

Puppies need constant supervision during the first few months. A puppy can injure himself  if he is uncomfortable in a crate and left unsupervised. So make the crate comfortable. Place a soft old blanket or pillow inside. Place a few of his favorite, safe toys in the crate as well.

Allow puppies to get used to a crate gradually. To begin, you made need to place a treat inside, because you want her to go in on her own. The treat also rewards her for the right behavior. Each time she goes in, wait until she settles in and then close the door for a minute or two and observe. If she cries, wait for her to stop before letting her out.

At first, try to leave your puppy in the crate for short periods, gradually working up to an hour or two at a time. As he grows older, increase that time to match a full night of sleep or a day at work. If a puppy whines to get out of her crate, don’t pay her too much attention for a few minutes after you let her out. If you do, she’ll associate leaving the crate with getting attention. Remember that puppies need constant supervision during the first few months. A puppy can hurt herself if he’s uncomfortable being in a crate and is left unsupervised.

Crate Training for Older Dogs

This is really no different from introducing a puppy to a dog crate, it’s just that the adult may take a bit longer to learn. Be patient, and don’t leave your dog unsupervised.  Just like the puppy, if the dog is uncomfortable in a crate he may injure himself. If you learn how to crate train a dog properly, you’ll be able to ensure your dog never gets too loud, destructive, or anxious when you leave. A puppy adapts quicker, which is much less stressful for everyone in the house. But in spite of the old adage, it’s never too late too teach an old dog new tricks. Even your mature dog can benefit from crate training.